Routesetting 101 定线入门
Mention climbing on plastic and you will likely hear a muttering of groans and hisses from some camps and excited rants from others about the latest and greatest blue problem in the gym. Regardless of what camp you belong to, you likely have climbed on some poorly set routes or boulder problems as well as some excitingly thoughtful ones. So what makes a great indoor problem? The answer is simple:Movement. 提到人工岩壁攀爬，你似乎就听到了低沉的呻吟，比赛中的嚎叫，关于岩馆里最新最棒的那条蓝线的讨论。无论你在哪个岩馆里混，你都会遇到令人兴奋发人深省的线路，和质量低下的线路。那么是什么因素决定了线路的好坏呢？答案很简单：动作。
Unlike weight training or other repetitive exercises such as running, climbing has multitudes of moves that need to be learned. Climbing, in some respects, is like a game of chess. The best route-setters in the world know this. Good route setting isn’t about making the holds further apart or putting smaller crimps on the wall to make it more difficult. It is instead about the creation of cryptic sequences that force specific movement. A well-planned route or problem should be physically possible for every person in the gym whether he or she is the ten-year-old phenom or the average six-foot tall beer guzzling college student if given the climbing prowess. Here are some ideas to help you as a route setter when creating the next piece de’ resistance. 和举重训练或其他，比如跑步这样的重复性练习不同，攀岩中你需要学习大量的动作。从某个角度来说，攀爬就像一局国际象棋。世上最好的定线员明白这点。好的线路并不在于把手点移得更远或者使用更小的crimp点来让线路变得难以完成。它在于创造出神秘的序列，驱使人做出特定的动作。一个巧妙设计的线路应该让岩馆中的所有人都有可能完成，无论他(她)是10岁的优秀运动员还是6英尺高的大学生。下面是一些主意帮助你完成下一次线路的设计。
The Smalls and the Talls (小个和高个)
Chances are, you aren’t setting for ABS Nationals, but it is still important to know who is going to be trying your problems. After a day of setting, sit back and watch other gym patrons try the new problems. Pay close attention to junior team members, as they often are the shortest gym patrons. They make great forerunners for problems when reach is a concern on specific movement. A problem that is reachy for the sake of being hard should get immediate attention. It shows a clear lack of imagination on the part of the route setter, Often an intermediate handhold or other foot options could alleviate a reach problem. Creating movement that is doable for the gym’s shortest patron, while still offering the same challenge to the tallest gym member will ensure you aren’t alienating anyone. If you can do this, more people will enjoy your routes and problems. 你此时应该不是在为美国抱石系列赛定线，但了解谁会攀爬你定的线仍是很重要的。结束一天的定线后，坐下观察岩馆顾客尝试线路。特别要注意少年组的成员，通常来说他们是岩馆中最矮小的人群。在考虑某个动作的可够性时，他们是首要考虑对象。你要立即注意到那些因为够不到而变得困难的线路。这清晰地反映了定线员在这方面缺乏想象力，通常给个过渡手点或者脚点就可以缓解这个问题。定出岩馆最小个的顾客都可能完成的动作，同时保证线路对高个子也具有同样的难度，这样就不会让你疏远任何人。如果你达到这点，更多的人可以享受你的线路了。
A common practice among setters is to set to your elbow. This practice may have been suffice ten years ago, but today, gyms are inundated with strong kids “the smalls” who are often to short to ride roller coasters yet can crank out ridiculous movements given the reach. If you are six feet, setting to your elbow is often not good enough, especially if the gym has a large contingency of strong groms. The next time you set, try to set from the foothold you are executing the move off to your shoulder. The hard part is creating a problem where moves cannot be bi passed by “the talls” in the gym. Using less positive holds and being creative can help. Another thing to try is creating routes and problems that have side-to-side movement versus just a straight up path. This can eliminate the possibility of tall people utilizing low feet to by pass moves, thus forcing the intended sequence. 将手点定在你的手肘处(确保你的手肘能够到点)，这是定线员们广泛使用的方法。这个经验早在十年前就通过考验了，但到了今天，岩馆里满是牛X的小孩”小个子”，他们的身高可能还达不到玩过山车的最低标准，却可以创造出匪夷所思的动作来完成够点。如果你高6英尺(1米82)，在手肘处定点已经不够好了，特别是岩馆里可能出现超强的达人时。下次定线时，可以试着用从你做动作发力的脚点起，到你肩膀的距离。真正的难点在于定出高个子也不能省点的线路。用不那么好抓的手点以及创造性是有帮助的。相对于笔直向上的线路，设计出带横移动作的线路也是一种方法。这消除了高个子通过上高脚来跳点的可能性，从而驱使他们用你设计的动作序列。
Size Matters (尺寸)
Uh-hum. It’s true, climbers love monster sized holds. When setting with plastic behemoths, try to incorporate the hold into several problems or routes of varying grades. This can be difficult at the easier grades, but carefully placed heal hooks or knee bars can make even the most sloping monstrosity usable at almost any angle. 呃。是真的，攀岩者喜欢超级大的点。装上超大岩点后，不同难度的线路可以合用它。这对低级线路来说可能有些难度，但精心设计的挂脚或顶膝可以让这个点在所有角度都变得可用，即使是最倾斜的那面也一样。
Bikes and Bars and Toe Hooks (技术动作不翻了，bike是指双脚落在同一个点上，通常是一个脚踩一个脚勾；bar是指将身体某个部位卡在点与点之间；toe hook是指用脚尖勾点)
Anyone can set a difficult route with big moves on decent holds. Creating movement on holds that are seemingly impossible to hold at a given angle takes a bit more work. Introducing the bicycle, the knee bar and the toe hook. Using these more advanced foot techniques can make grappling with slopers a breeze, but for those who don’t utilize the techniques employed to make the problem go, the movement may seem impossible. On the steeps, these techniques offer a more cerebral solution to straight forward tugging. Inside or out, unlocking the mystery of a move is half the fun. 任何人都可以定出困难线路，通过选用适当的点，选用大动作。在那些某些角度上几乎不可能握住的点上创造动作则需要做更多的工作。引入bicycle(bike)，knee bar以及toe hook。使用这些略高级的脚法可以让与sloper点的战斗变成毛毛雨，但对于不会使用这些技巧的人，完成线路几乎不可能。在岩壁上，这些技巧提供了更轻巧的解决方案，相比直接硬上。解密动作的难度也是一种乐趣。
Ebb and Flow (起伏)
One move wonders can be great for the ego or shattering depending on the outcome. These types of routes seldom make the cut in terms of long-term enjoyment. Most boulder problems set inside will be five to ten moves in length. Each one of those moves should be roughly the same difficulty. This creates consistency in the problem and helps ensure there is no showstopper moves. This is incredibly important when setting for comps. When creating the movement keep in mind that each move should have some flow into the next. Nothing is worse than having awkward hand switches on a holds that seem out of place in a given sequence. Creating consistent movement from one hold to the next will ensure greater enjoyment of the problem by other climbers. 一个奇迹般的动作可以让人无比自豪或者肝肠寸断，这依赖于结果。这些类型的线路很少会带来长期的乐趣。大多数室内抱石线路长度为5~10个动作。其中的每一个动作的难度应该大致相同。这为线路带来一致性，同时这样也保证了不会有搅局动作。这对于比赛定线来说无比重要。在设计动作时切记每个动作与下个动作应该具有连贯性。没有什么比一个貌似和整条线路完全不相干的别扭换手更糟糕了。设计一气呵成的线路会给攀爬者带来很大的乐趣。
Style is Like Fashion (风格就像时尚)
Actually, style is a constant, but like fashion, we need to change our style from time to time if we want to keep ahead as route setters. From time to time, evaluate what your strengths and weaknesses are as a setter, and go back over recent work that you have done. You may notice there are some consistencies in the movements. If that is the case, change your style a bit to break up the norm. If there is a gaston on every route, create a layback. Using different types of hold on a given route is another way to avoid monotony. The point is to keep things fresh and new. Remember the idea is to keep it interesting for patrons of the gym. 实际上，风格是不会变的，但时尚类似，如果我们希望走在时尚前列的话，就需要不时地改变我们的风格。不时地评估自己的长处和弱点，回顾最近定出的线路。你可能注意到了那些在线路中固定不变的东西。对于这种情况，稍微做些改变以打破常规。如果你每条线路里都有gaston(双手往反向拉，类似扒电梯门的动作)，试试用layback(双手双脚平行，手拉脚蹬身体往另一侧倒的动作)。对同一条线路使用不同类型的点也可以避免单调。重点是要保持新鲜感。记住要让岩馆的顾客保持兴趣。
Circuits vs. Grades (图表 vs. 难度)
Grades are always under scrutiny, and inside the gym, arguments over grades can even be worse. Often arguments ensue over grades inside when neither party has ever climbed the grade outside to know the difference. There is an easy solution to eliminate this strokefest from occurring in your gym. Eliminate grades! Instead, get together with the other setters and managers of your gym and create a color chart. Designate colors to coordinate with a grade range, but don’t share this grade range with other patrons of they gym (i.e. yellow and teal is V4 or V5 and on routes is 5.4-5.8). Instead, post the new color chart with recreational, intermediate, advanced, and expert designations. This simple color coordinated chart will create easy to follow circuits, and hunting for numbers will become less of an obsession for gym patrons. 难度一直都备受瞩目，在岩馆里，对难度的争执会更大。通常参与争吵的双方都没有在野外爬过同样级别因此无法知道区别。有一个很简单的办法可以避免岩馆内争吵的发生。避免定级！作为替代，召集所有定线员和经理，建立一个颜色表。用颜色划分一定的难度范围，但不要用其它岩馆一样的等级划分方法(例如黄色代表V4/V5，湖蓝色表示5.4~5.8)。可以设定休闲，中等，高级，专家四个等级并指定颜色。简单的色彩图表容易理解，那些最求数字的岩馆顾客也因此会减少争吵。
Listen (聆听)
Route setters are responsible for delivering a good product to the customer, and just like with other forms of commerce, the customer’s wants and needs may change. Always listen to what the customer has to say even if what they have to say is negative. Negative comments about routes or boulder problems often can improve your setting style, but only if you listen. Never get defensive, instead find out why the route or boulder problem isn’t a gym favorite, and make improvements the next time you set. Ask the critic how he or she would change the route to make it better. Sometimes, a small foothold will change a dump of a route into a gym classic. 定线员有责任将好的产品提供给客户，而和其他的商业形式一样，客户需求可能会变化。聆听客户的声音，就算他们说的是负面的。对于线路的负面反馈可以帮助你改善定线风格。不要保守，找出你的线不在岩馆里最受欢迎线路的原因，下次定线时注意改进。向那些批评家请教看他是如何改进线路的。有时候，一个小的脚点就能将一条垃圾线路变成岩馆经典。
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发表于 2012-9-28 21:37:53
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