Adam Ondra完成世界上第一条9b+线路后 给8a.nu的信

xumabbs_manager

转自Adam Ondra官网 http://www.adamondra.com

http://vimeo.com/45805681

Adam Ondra said about the route to 8a.nu:

I can’t believe it – was, if my memory is right, the first words I said after clipping the anchor of this route. It is definitely the most rewarding feeling I have ever had after sending the route. I can’t stop smiling, even now, typing these words. Despite tough process of working the route, this can’t be any sweeter. Not only because it is 9b+, a number which looks so strange typed on the screen.

The route can be divided into two pitches – 9a+/b (20m), nohand-rest and 9a (25m). The first pitch is bouldery – first twelve meters can be described as 8b route into 8B+ (some of the most crazy moves I have ever done) into 7B+. Above this, there is a bad kneebar, where I pull the rope down and the belayer starts belaying again. The rest of the first pitch is pretty easy. At the chains, there is a nohands rest, where you stand on good footholds in the vertical wall leaning with your head on the roof above (I did not find rest in summer).

The second pitch has long power-endurance sequence of about 6 meters just above the first anchor, long moves, compression style and heelhooks including hard crimping as well. From here on, it is not more than 8b+, but tiring and neverending pumpfest, which offers numerous jugs to rest, but one is not able to recover there any more…
It is the route I’ve put the most effort into. It took me three weeks of trying in summer, two weeks in autumn. But I must say that sometimes it was lot about waiting for the conditions to arrive, sometimes I went up the route only to find out it is too damp and especially in autumn, when the temperature was excellent, but two holds were seeping in the upper part as it had been raining for three weeks straight prior to arrival. Just the day of the send they finally got almost dry. I could do the single moves despite wetness, but it would be extremely difficult on the link. I have never got that high before sending it, but during the send I realized that I would definitely fall off if got in the previous conditions.

Regarding to grade, it has been a long dilemma. After sending the first pitch for a first time (after about 5 or 6 days), I thought that the first is merely 9a+ and the second pitch felt close as I could recover at the first chains pretty well. The ascent felt in grasp, but more I tried it, the more I realized how hard the first pitch is on itself and how pumpy the second pitch is. The more I tried, the more idea of 9b+ was buzzing in my head. The final decision was made two days before my ascent. My self-confidence was low down, the ascent milion miles way and I was playing with the idea that chances of doing this trip are dashed. As I though about it, it felt so much harder than any 9b’s I have done so far, I put so much time into it, additionally it fits my style quite well, I told myself that it was going to be too hard for a 9b…

I realize right now how extremely lucky I was to find a line that turned out to be exactly on my limit. No waste of bolts only to find something impossible, just long hours of looking at the endless sea of Flatanger granite and good decision. I must say, in the end I did not choose the first line that struck my eyes at first glance, the most impressive one. This one is still in my mind, I’ll probably give a look at it next year. But Change turned out to be exactly as I anticipated. Challenging with good movements, various styles of climbing. The only thing that spoils the route is the nohand-rest and the fact that it doesn’t go to the top of the cave, or at least to the lip. I had an idea of trying a line to the top in one push, but in the end I found out that it is impossible due to rope drag and climbing with two ropes and having one rope already hanging in the wall is just too artificial. And climbing another pitch only to go to the top – that would be nice for the feeling, but a lot of work and no one would ever really climb, even though it could be world class 8c, as it is too complicated to jug up there. I really focused on finding a good spot to set the anchor, not in the middle of blank wall on bad crimp, but good ledge on the top of the obvious square-shaped feature.

The recent times and the route itself definitely changed myself a lot. I live totally different life as I am not going to school anymore. The trying of it was ever changing process. In the meantime, I learnt a lot, but I suppose that once I will start something new, I will make the same mistakes. The fight with your mind is the one you can win only temporarily. But one thing the route did not change – my desire for opening new routes. First ascents turned out to be as enjoyable and satisfying I had thought.

xumabbs_manager

试着翻译一下第一段：
假如没记错的话，我将绳子扣进这条线路顶端快挂后说出的第一句话是“我简直不敢相信！”。我从来没有在完成线路之后这么爽过。直到现在，我在打这些字的时忍不住偷着乐。虽然磕线的时候很苦，但也没有比这更甜蜜得了，这不仅仅是因为它的难度是9b+。说实话，这个数字在打屏幕上真是陌生。

xumabbs_manager

呃，岩蜥上有人翻译了：
我不敢相信 - 如果我记忆没出错，这是我扣好顶链后说的第一句话。在完成这条线后我感觉到前所未有的荣耀。我无法停止微笑，甚至现在，打下这些字的时候。尽管磕这条线的时候很苦，也没有比这更甜蜜的了。不仅仅因为这是9b+，一个在屏幕上看起来如此陌生的数字。

这条线路可以分成两段 – 9a+/b(20米)，无手休息和9a(25米)。第一段很像抱石 - 开始的12米可以描述成8b线路转到8B+抱石(其中一些是我做过的最疯狂的动作)再到7B+抱石。在这之后，有个糟糕的kneebar，在那里我把绳子向下拉同时保护员重新开始保护。第一段剩下的就比较简单了。在锁链处，那可以做无手休息，你可以在竖直岩面上踩着好脚点将头靠在上面的天花板(我在夏天的时候没有找到这个休息点)。

第二段有很长的力量-耐力 动作序列，在第一个锚点的上方，差不多有6米，大动作，压迫风格(compression style)，挂脚和很难的crimp。在这之后，就没有比8b+更难的了，但疲惫和永不停止的前臂涨，虽说有许多大手点可以休息，但没有一个可以让它们恢复。。。

这是一条我花了最大精力的线路。我在夏天花了三个星期，秋天又花了两个星期。但我必须说有时很多时间花在了等待好时机的到来，有时我走到线路下却发现它太潮湿了，特别是在秋天，当气温很棒时，较上方的两个手点却在渗水，因为之前的三周一直在下雨。只在我完成线路的那一天它们终于快要干了。尽管潮湿时我还可以做分步动作，但想要完成全套就特别困难了。我在完成之前从没爬到过那么高，但在完成的那次我意识到，如果是之前的那种条件的话我绝对会掉下来的。

关于级别，这是个长期的困境。在第一次搞定第一段时(大约在5或6天后)，我想第一段只是9a+而且第二段看起来也差不多，如果我在第一个顶链能较好地恢复的话。登顶感觉尽在掌握之中，但我尝试越多，我就越感觉第一段的困难以及第二段的涨手感。尝试越多，9b+的想法在我脑中盘旋地越厉害。最终决定在我完成线路的前两天定了下来。我的自信被打击了，登顶好像离我十万八千里，感觉这次攀岩之旅的机会不大了。我的想法是，它比我以往完成的所有9b都要难得多，我花了这么多时间在这里，特别是它如此符合我的风格，我告诉自己这么难的线路不可能是9b。

我现在意识到我有多幸运，找到一条刚好在我极限的线路。没有浪费时间去开一些不可能的线路，就在盯着海量的Flatanger(挪威地名)花岗岩后就做出了好决定。我必须说，最终我没有选择我一眼看中的第一条线，最具冲击力的那条。那一条仍在我的脑海中，我可能明年再来看看它。但变化完全如同我的预期。好动作的挑战，各种风格的攀爬。这条线路的唯一缺点就是那个无手休息和它没有到达洞穴的顶端，或者至少到达唇部。我有过一次攀爬就到顶的想法，但最终发现这不太可能，因为绳子的拖累，带着两条绳子攀爬，而且其中一条已经挂在墙上了这个感觉太做作了。再攀爬另一个绳段仅仅为了到顶端 - 这种感觉虽妙，但花费这么多功夫，或许没有人会真正地攀爬这一段，虽说它可以是世界级的8c，但想要到达那里实在是太复杂了。我真的专注于找到好的地方设置顶链，将它设在顶端的四方平台上，而不是在空白的墙当中的糟糕crimp点。

最近一段时间以及这条线路绝对改变了我许多。在我不再上学后，我处于完全不同的生活状态。这个尝试是个不断改变的过程。同时我学到了许多，但我觉得一旦我开始一些新的东西，我会犯同样的错误。在和自己思想的搏斗中你只能暂时获胜。但这条线路不会改变的是 - 我对开发新线路的渴望。首攀会带给我意想之中的快乐和满足。

小狗娃

xumabbs_manager 发表于 2012-10-9 02:36

                               
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试着翻译一下第一段：
假如没记错的话，我将绳子扣进这条线路顶端快挂后说出的第一句话是“我简直不敢相信 ...

亲，你翻译的比较好啊