改善动作：攀爬技巧控制三部曲 < 好文！！ >

与谁同坐轩

Movement Improvement: A three-part guide to taking control of your climbing technique

改善动作：攀爬技巧控制三部曲

                                    byJohn Kettle

                                 作者：JohnKettle

Formany the greatest satisfaction in their climbing comes from thatelusive feeling of moving smoothly and lightly across difficultterrain. But when searching for improvement, it is all too easy tofocus on the task of increasing strength and fitness and hope thatgood technique will somehow happen unprompted given sufficientmileage.

许多人在攀爬过程中感受到流畅地移动和轻巧地通过复杂地形会给他们带来极大的满足感。但当寻求改进方法时，很容易就专注在力量和身体素质的增长，并希望通过积累某一天突然好技术就出现了。

Climbingmovement is really important. Our delicate fingers and slenderforearms can only take the majority of our body weight for a veryshort period, so if we are not moving as efficiently as possible, allthe time, our prospects of climbing success are dramatically limited.

攀爬动作非常重要。我们娇嫩的手指和纤细的前臂只能在很短的时间内承受我们的体重，所以如果我们不能在任何时候都高效率地移动的话，我们显然在攀爬上不会太有前途。

Butchanging the way you move on rock is no small matter. In the nextthree sections I'll attempt to explain how you learnt to climb theway you do, becoming aware of the way you move, and how to changeyour movement.

但改变你在岩石上的移动方式可不是一件小事。在下面三节里我将为你讲解你学习动作的原理，从而留意你的移动方式，以及如何改变你的动作。

Part1: Know Thyself

第一部分：认识自己

Toimprove your climbing technique, firstly you must understand how youlearn movement, and secondly analyse how you move at the moment, sothat you can modify your technique to achieve your climbing goals andreduce the risk of injury.

要改善你的攀爬技巧，首先你要理解你是如何学习动作的，然后分析你目前是如何做动作的，这样你才能修改你的技巧达成你的攀爬目标，同时降低受伤的风险。

Ilearnt all this the hard way, after my appalling wall-bred, staticstrength-based style contributed to shoulder injuries that preventedme from climbing more than once weekly for 4 years. It took thisperiod of enforced down-time (including double shoulder surgery) forme to figure it out, save yourself the trouble and read on to findout how to get better, without needing get fitter!

在我吓人的静态暴力流攀岩风格导致肩膀受伤，四年间每周无法进行超过一次的攀爬后，我才学到这些。这是我在被动休息期间(包括双肩手术)才弄明白的，你想避免这样的麻烦的话，读下去，找到不用变得更壮却能爬得更好的方法。

BeginnersMind - how you learn to move

初学者之心-如何学习动作

Thescience: To make any movement, information must be sent from yourbrain to the nerves that operate your muscles. This informationtravels along neural pathways. All the time we are conducting complexmovements involving many muscles and numerous pathways are beingtravelled simultaneously, from sitting upright to operating a mouse.

科学理论：要做任何动作，必然有信号从大脑发向控制你肌肉的神经。信号沿着神经通路传播。每时每刻我们都在做涉及到很多肌肉的复杂动作，多个神经通路在同时传播，例如坐直和操作鼠标等。

Thesemovements that now seem natural had to be learned, the neuralpathways had to be 'discovered' and travelled regularly by your brainsignals before you were confident and relaxed whilst performing them.

那些现在看来很自然的动作曾经也需要去学习，在你可以轻松自如地完成这些动作之前，神经通路需要“被发现”以及经常传播来自大脑的信号。

CreaturesOf Habit -how your movement develops

习惯性的动物-动作的开发

Initiallythese neural pathways are like a rarely travelled footpath -overgrown, hard to find and bramble-ridden. With increased trafficthey broaden into a large path, then a track. If enough trafficpasses through, the (Brain) Council will tarmac the track, and givenyears of heavy use, it'll become a five-lane super-highway.

最初这些神经通路就像人迹罕见的道路-草木旺盛，难以发现，荆棘丛生。随着流量增加小路会拓宽成大路，大道。当流量足够多时，议会(大脑)就会给大道铺上沥青，频繁使用这条大道，这时它就成了一条五车道超级高速公路。

Ourhabits employ neural superhighways – those movements we make allthe time because they feel easy and familiar. We often do themwithout even realising it. Some of the many common climbing badhabits include: repeated repositioning of the foot on every hold;flagging on one side regularly, and avoiding it on the other; orcrimping holds only because it feels more secure than open-handingthem.

我们的习惯会开发出神经的超级高速公路-我们会不断做那些我们感觉很容易很熟悉的动作。甚至通常在我们还没有意识到的时候就做出来了。一些常见的攀爬坏习惯有：在每个点上不断调整踩点位置；经常做某一侧的旗式平衡，却避免做另外一侧；使用crimp抓点因为感觉这样比用openhand更稳。

Themore developed the pathway is, the less mental effort - 'brainbandwidth' - it takes to use it. That's why after the initial mentaloverload, the complex task of driving a car gradually becomes lessdemanding, and soon you begin to find room to think about otherthings, as your driving technique becomes a 'habit'.

通路开发程度越高，需要消耗的精神-‘大脑带宽’-就越少。像开车这种复杂任务，刚开始时压力山大，随后精神需求越来越少，最后当开车技能形成习惯后，你可以有空余精力去思考别的事情。

Stress,either mental (e.g. fear of falling, social/performance anxiety) orphysical (the unrelenting pump) interferes with your ability to useneural pathways. Our brains have a very limited bandwidth forconscious thought. If this is inundated with stress alarms, yourbrain automatically opts for the most well travelled neural pathways(habits) for movement, because they require less bandwidth toperform.

压力，无论是精神上的(例如怕冲坠，公众/表现焦虑)或身体上的(前臂肿胀)，都会影响你神经通路的使用能力。我们的大脑只有很有限的带宽用于有意识的思考。在压力警报占满带宽时，大脑会自动选择最常传播的神经通路进行动作(习惯)，因为它需求的带宽最少。

Fascinating,I hear you say.

很有趣是吧。

Butwait! What this means for the climber under stress is they revert tousing the 'habitual' moves they've repeated the most before – oftenthose front-on, over-gripping, foot bashing moves you've done everytime you got stressed since starting the sport. Sound familiar?

等等！这对攀爬者来说就意味着在压力之下他们会使用他们之前重复最多次的‘习惯性的’动作-什么正对岩壁，抓点用力过度，脚挪来挪去这些你刚开始参与这项运动遇到困难时都会做的动作。耳熟吗？

Part2: Repetition and Feedback

第二部分：重复及反馈

Somovement is reinforced through repetition – to make those gracefulmoves work for you, you must repeat them numerous times, andgradually stress-proof them by progressively taking them from thesecurity of a top rope or crash-matted bouldering room intoincreasingly demanding environments; pumpier, riskier and higherpressure. Thoroughly developed neural pathways can be operated at asubconscious level by the brain, so you can focus on the other issuestroubling you mid-climb without your technique suffering. It oftenlooks unexpected when a top competition climber falls, because theirmovement does not degenerate as they become exhausted, their arms maybe screaming and their eyes popping out, but the subconscious isstill wombling away pulling smooth moves out the bag – moves theyhave rehearsed countless times.

这么说来动作是通过不断地重复而增强的-想让那些优雅的动作为你所用，你就必须多次重复它们，先从很保险的顶绳攀爬或者带垫子的室内抱石，再慢慢增加环境要求；手涨情况下，有风险的情况下，以及高压情况下。逐步让你能在任何压力下完成动作。通过开发神经通路使得大脑能在潜意识层面操作，让你在攀爬过程中可以专注在别的问题上而不用考虑技术。在高水平比赛中经常看到选手出乎意料地脱落，因为他们的动作不会因为力气耗尽而变形，尽管他们的手在抖眼睛都凸出来了，潜意识仍让他们流畅地做出标准动作-跟他们练习时做的无数次一模一样。

TheBad News

坏消息

Unfortunatelyit's not just your best moves that get reinforced, it's every move,every time you do it. Damn! When you're seconding, cold and rushingto get to the belay, you're reinforcing those neural pathways ofhasty movement and careless footwork. When – for the sake offitness - you get back on the yellow traverse you cruised earlierthat evening, and flail your way exhausted through it, you arefurther ingraining those wild and sketchy manoeuvres. As you hangfrom a fingerboard, or campus up the rungs, the pathways that focuson pulling really hard while your feet dangle uselessly arereinforced. These last two training methods are effective supplementsfor climbing, but if used as replacements you can see their effect onyour technique may be detrimental.

不幸的是不单是你最好的动作会增强，所有动作在你做出来的时候都会。尼玛！当你冷得不行数着秒奔向保护点时，你就在增强那些毛糙动作和随意脚法的神经通路。在你健身的时候，你会重温那些狂野粗旷的动作。当你吊在指力板上，或在引体爬梯，那些专注于硬拉而双脚悬空毫无用处的神经通道被增强了。后两项锻炼方法在有效增加攀爬能力的同时，对你的攀岩技巧带来负面的作用。

YouWant The Truth? - Becoming aware of the way you move

你要的真相-开始留意你移动的方式

Tofind out how you move, you need to get some feedback. You receiveenormous amounts of feedback from your body every time you climb, butit takes time and effort to tune in to it, and use it effectively.Here's a recording I made of body-brain feedback from a climber who'sjust slumped exhausted onto the seventh bolt of a 6b+:

要明白你如何做动作，你需要反馈。你每次攀爬的时候都会收到身体传来的无数反馈，但这需要时间和精力去发掘和有效利用。一个攀爬者在爬一个7挂片6b+难度的线路，下面是我在他精疲力尽时做的身体-大脑反馈记录：

Body(screaming): "My forearms are pumped solid!!"

Brain:"Thanks for the feedback, I guess I failed because I'm not fitenough - better do more endurance training"

身体(尖叫)：“我前臂涨得跟石头一样”

大脑：“谢谢你的反馈，我想我的失败是因为我不够强壮-看来我需要更多的耐力训练”

Inthis case Brain only listened to the loudest feedback – soconcluded that fitness was at fault. In fact if every move up to thatbolt had been executed in a more efficient style, and every slightshakeout exploited, the arms would have still been fresh, and theroute completed easily within the existing fitness level.

在这种情况下大脑只接收了最大声的反馈-从而总结出是身体素质不够好。实际上如果每个动作都能以更有效的方式做出来，以及不断利用甩手，手臂应该可以保持良好的状态，这条线路在当前身体素质来看应该是非常容易的。

Sotuning in to the quieter body feedback is essential – how much yourhips twist during a long reach, how straight your arms are, how hardyour left toe pulls in while your right hand moves, how much yourcore swings after you grab the sloper..

因此发掘身体较轻微的反馈是必须的-你的臀部在摸远点时的旋转力度，手臂伸展程度，右手移动的同时左脚趾有多用力，手够到sloper后你的核心摆荡情况。。

Theinformation is all there but to exploit it takes deliberate reviewingand a purposefully developed awareness of your whole body duringclimbing.

攀爬过程中的所有信息都在那里，但需要你特别去留意，下意识地去开发。

Usinginternal feedback is only half the story – you'll learn faster ifexternal feedback is also listened to. This can be from any externalsource, usually fellow climbers, a coach, or video footage. Fellowclimbers' feedback will be based upon their own experience, soconsider the depth of this when taking it in: Are their highperformances in the same arena as yours – and are they indoors orout, all-rounder or specialist?

留意身体反馈只是一半-如果你留意外部反馈的话你的学习过程会快得多。外部反馈来源多种多样，通常来自攀爬伙伴，教练，视频。攀爬伙伴的反馈通常基于他们自身的经验，所以在接受之前先考虑它们的深度：他们在这方面表现得和你一样高水准与否-他们在室内还是户外进行攀爬，全能选手或者专项选手？

Seeingyourself climb on video is invaluable but - be warned - it isbrutally honest, and as it gives you all the information it can behard to pluck the most useful points out. A good coach should combinethe perceptiveness of video with the delicate and relevant feedbackof a highly experienced friend, so you get a manageable dose of theright information. This can save you years of misguided time andeffort, but unfortunately you have to pay for it!

观看自己的攀爬视频很宝贵但是-注意-这种残暴的真实，它会给你所有信息，因此你很难挑出最有用的。好的教练会综合视频角度以及攀岩老手角度后给与反馈，你能得到适量的有用信息。这能省下你好多年被误导的时间和精力，可惜你要为此付费！

Soyou've gathered this vast array of feedback, but now what to do withit? In Part 3 we'll tackle the process of changing your moves for thebetter.

你现在得到了大量的反馈，现在该如何处理呢？第三部分我们解决改善动作的问题。

Part3: Getting Better All The Time - how to modify your movement

第三部分：不断进步-修改你的动作

Havingdecided that you don't currently climb like a gecko/lemur hybrid, howto go about hatching out of that chrysalis and fluttering up thecrag?

确认你现在不是壁虎/猴子合体，如何孵化出飘在峭壁上的能力呢？

Withthe help of your feedback-gathering techniques mention in theprevious article, you will no doubt become aware of a few habits, orneural super-highways. The aim is to neglect these tired favouritesand focus on all the weird and unfamiliar elements of climbing thatyour subconscious has been avoiding all this time, until they becomesuper-highways too. The eventual outcome of honing these is - whenfaced with a tricky move under stress - you'll choose the mostefficient way to climb it from a huge selection of stress-proofedoptions in your repertoire, rather than grabbing an old favouritethat may make the move much harder than it needs to be.

通过上一节提到的反馈收集技巧的帮助，你毫无疑问会注意到一些习惯性动作，或者说神经高速通路。现在的目标是忽略这些用烂了的最爱动作，将注意力集中到那些你潜意识中一直在避免的，怪异及不熟悉的攀爬元素，直到它们也成为高速公路为止。最终我们要的成果是-当在压力下面对诡异线路时-你能从你的海量已经通过压力测试的动作库中选出最有效的方法去搞定它，而不是使用那些让你的通过变得更加困难的毛糙动作。

Soget the strimmer onto those overgrown neural pathways and startdeadpointing, fist jamming, and drop kneeing without delay! Whateveryou've avoided, master it and you'll improve much faster thatchipping away at a technique you have already spent years refining.Finding out what you avoid is not as easy as it sounds, we all avoidsome things consciously (offwidth anyone?) but it takes carefulattention to feedback to pick up which side you avoid flagging on, orwhich foot you avoid rocking over onto. These are both examples ofleft/right favouritism and it's a good place to start.

现在开始摆脱那些过度发育的神经通路，马上开始死点，涨拳，折膝！那些你在逃避的一切，掌握它们，相对于那些已经花了多年磨练的技巧，你会飞快地成长。。找到你避免的东西并不像听起来那么简单，我们都会不自觉地避免某些东西(像offwidth，有人举手吗？)小心留意反馈了解你在避免做那个方向的旗式平衡，或你不愿用哪只脚踩板。这些都是左/右偏好主义，这是个很好的开始。

PracticingMovement: Turn up the volume

动作练习：加大训练量

Youneed both a high volume of practice and it needs to be of a highquality for you to make steady gains in climbing technique. It isgenerally agreed that in order to perform at an elite level requiresten thousand, yes 10,000 hours of high quality practice. That's about10 years at 2-3 hours of daily practice. Phew. You can't move thegenetic ceiling (that decides the fitness for climbing) of your body,but anyone can clock up the practice hours if suitably motivated, andthere isn't one elite climber out there that hasn't put it thosehours.

你需要大量的练习，同时你的练习必须有高质量才能让你在攀爬技巧上有稳步提高。通常来说如果你想要成为达人需要10000小时的高质量练习。这意味着10年内每天2到3小时的训练量。你无法修改你的基因(它们决定了你攀爬的身体素质)，但任何人在适当鼓励下累积练习时间，目前没有哪个攀岩达人少在练习上花时间的。

QualityStreet

练习质量

Sothe volume of practice is directly linked to your climbingperformance. The quality is equally important. When an elite athletepractices, everything they practice is solely for one reason – toget better. This level of focus can lead to a seriously unsociableclimber (if you cannot find others equally focused), but with alittle thought you can steer your climbing more directly towardsimprovement without dropping off the social radar for a decade.Alongside targeting your neglected moves, make sure everything ispracticed on as many different wall angles and rock types aspossible. When climbing indoors I rehearse unfamiliar moves on hugeholds on the bouldering wall, then repeat them countless times atdiffering angles on 'rainbow' on the auto-belay, progress from hereto harder bouldering and indoor leading. Begin stress-proofing as youfeel more confident with them. Whilst training technique your agendais simply to improve your movement. This means the grades, style ofascent, and 'getting to the top' habits are irrelevant –save themfor when you're performing, and know the difference. Keep returningto the video camera and seeking feedback from all sources, and keepasking yourself if your practice is still purposeful, and taking youdirectly towards your goals.

练习量直接影响你的攀爬表现。但质量同样重要。当精英运动员练习时，他们做的所有事都只有一个目的-变得更好。这种专注程度可能导致一个性格孤僻的攀岩者(如果找不到同样专注程度的人的话)，但你只要花点心思就能在进步的同时避免在社交上落后整个时代。在以被忽略动作为目标的时候，尽可能在不同角度的岩面和不同类型的岩石上练习它们。在室内攀岩时我先在抱石墙上用大点练习不熟悉的动作，然后通过自保护继续在不同角度的岩壁上进行多次练习，逐步到较难的抱石还有室内先锋。直到你对它们有足够自信时就可以进行压力测试了。进行技术训练的目的是改善动作。这意味着级别，爬升风格，还有‘一定要到顶’的习惯是不相干的-把这些留到你需要表现的时候，明白它们的区别。不断看视频回放以及到处寻找反馈，自问你的练习是否有目的性，能否达成你的目标。

GoTo It!

马上尝试！

Itis never too early- or too late - in your climbing career to focus onyour movement, great climbers are those that move well first, andthen get fit/strong later. Although there is lots of information outthere about what makes 'good technique', the bottom line is it'sabout what is most efficient for you - your build, flexibility andbody shape. Only blame you failures on fitness as a last resort, becreative and experimental in your movement, and embrace the processof problem-solving moves.

在你的攀岩生涯中，专注于动作永远不嫌太早或太晚，好的攀岩者总是先动作做得好，然后提升身体素质变强壮的。尽管现在有很多资讯关于‘提升技巧’，关键要找到最适合你的-你的个头，柔韧性和体型。攀爬失败时责怪身体素质是最没用的，做动作要有创新性和实验性，拥抱解决线路动作的过程。