指力板的合理利用 <过了保鲜期的幼稚包搜罗>

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技术提示录：接触力

ByDave Sheldon

作者DaveSheldon

Hangboarding101

指力板训练101

Hangboardtraining is one of the most time-efficient ways to build hand andfinger (or “contact”) strength, especially if you can’t trainat a climbing gym. Two or three 30-minute workouts per week candeliver excellent results. All you need is a hangboard—many modelsare available for about $50— and a little motivation.

指力板训练是增长手力、指力(接触力)最有时间效率的方法之一，特别是在你没有办法到岩馆里训练的话。每周两到三次，每次30分钟的训练就可以达到很好的效果。你所需要的只是一个指力板- 很多款式只要大概50刀-以及一些动力。

Thebasic exercise is a dead hang from small holds. Mount the board soyou can easily reach the holds. You should be able to lower your feetto the ground when you are ready to unweight your hands; letting goand dropping to the floor can strain and damage finger tendons.

基础练习就是用小手点进行静态悬吊。将指力板装在你可以轻易够到手点的地方。注意确保你放下双脚就能踩到地上，当你准备结束悬吊时就这么做；脱手自由下落可能会导致手指肌腱拉伤。

Goodform on your dead hang will help you avoid injury. Always use anopen-handed grip—no crimping. Hang with a slight bend in yourelbows, and pull your shoulder blades down and back, keeping bodytension high. Practice the form on jugs or a pull-up bar before usingthe board’s smaller holds.

好的悬吊姿势会帮你避免受伤。永远只用open-hand抓握法-不要用crimp。手肘稍微弯曲，双肩下垂挺胸，保持全身紧绷。先在jug手点(指力板上缘手指可以抠进去很好抓的那种把手点)或者单杠上练好姿势后再使用指力板的小手点。

Begineach session with a full-body warm up. Jumping rope is an excellentoption, or take a quick run around the neighborhood. Do a fewpull-ups and a bit of shoulder and finger stretching to get the upperbody ready. Use the board’s jugs or a bar for the pull-ups; doingpull-ups from small holds puts you at risk for injury.

在每次训练前先做好热身。跳绳是很好的选择，或者在附近跑一小会。再做几个引体，拉伸一下肩膀和手指，确保上半身已经热身到位。做引体的话用指力板上的jug点或者单杠；用小手点引体有受伤的风险。

Illustrationby Jamie Givens

插图作者Jamie Givens

（图中左边是错误姿势，右边是正确姿势，用open-hand不用crimp，肘部微曲不要打直，垂肩挺胸不要驼背）

Theworkout

锻炼流程

1.Using an open-handed grip,grab a matched pair of holds, using all four fingers. Hang for 10 to15 seconds. If you can hang for more than 15 seconds, use smallerholds; if less, use bigger holds.

1.用open-hand握法抓住对称的一对手点，四个手指都用上。悬吊10~15秒。如果你可以吊到15秒以上，那就改用更小的点；如果坚持不了这么久，那就换大一些的点。

2.Restone minute after each hang, and then hang again. Four hangs equalsone set.

2.每次悬吊完成后休息1分钟，然后继续。每组悬吊4次。

3.Rest fve minutes and do another set of hangs on the same holds orones of similar challenge. Do four sets in all.

3.休息5分钟然后进行下一组，使用同样或者难度相当的点。每次锻炼做4组。

4.Afterthree weeks, increase the intensity by choosing holds you can onlygrip for between five and eight seconds. This is the sweet spot forbuilding strength; now that your body had adjusted to the stress ofthe hang, attempt to do every workout in this zone. (If you can’thold on for a minimum five-second count, use bigger holds or elserisk injury.) As you become comfortable with the demanding nature ofthe smaller holds and shorter hang time, incorporate different holdsinto each set.

4.3周后增加难度，改用那些你只能吊5~8秒的点。这样可以很好地增长力量；现在你的身体会进行调整以适应悬吊带来的压力(如果你坚持不到5秒，改用更大的点，要不就可能受伤了)。当你适应了更小的手点和更短的悬吊时间带来的刺激后，在每组练习中混用不同的手点。

Hangboardingputs a lot of stress on small muscles and tendons—that’s thepoint—and this requires that you listen to your body as youprogress through the workouts. If you can’t finish a set, end theworkout. If your fingers or elbows become sore, take a week off,reevaluate your deadhang form, and ease back into your next trainingsession.

指力板会给小肌肉和肌腱带来不小的压力- 这正是关键-这要求你在锻炼过程中关注你的身体状况。当你没办法完成一组训练时，停止这次锻炼。当感觉到手指或手肘异常，休息一周，检查一下你的悬吊姿势，谨慎开始下次训练。

xumabbs_manager

哇，这个好，中英文对照，还有图