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[攀岩秘籍] <转帖>论定线美学的必要性-----几个小技巧帮你实现

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发表于 2017-9-23 21:07:07 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
本帖最后由 liyu 于 2017-9-23 21:20 编辑

FROM:岩蜥攀岩论坛
论定线美学的必要性-----几个小技巧帮你实现
Some people willtell you that the way a climb looks is irrelevant.
'It's all about the movement'.
That's just not true. A more sensible approach is to try to set routesthat look great, and climb even better. Things that look good draw theeye. They create interest, and attraction. These are all reactions we want toillicit in climbers who see what we've created.
Aesthetics isn'tjust a question of beautiful colours or eye-catching contrast; it's also aquestion of useability. By putting some thought into the look and layout ofyour routes, you can create a far more user friendly product that will enhancethe climbers overall experience in the gym.
定线美学不只是吸引眼球的“美色--强烈的色彩对比“,同时也是把你的想法简单实用的贯穿在线路中,设定出更加友好的线路帮助攀岩者在攀岩馆全面的提升他们的能力。
Here are a fewways to improve the aesthetics of your routes, and the experience of theclimbers you're setting for.
Use Of space 空间的利用
When you're standing beneath a freshly stripped wall, take some time to planout the where each problem or route will run. The 'line' it will take. Becreative, and try to utilise as much of the assigned space you have to workwith. Wherever possible, create space between the lines, and avoid running themalong the same path for more than a few moves. A clear line of holds willattract the eye, and is easier to read and follow once the climber is on thewall.
Obviously, the less routes/problems that you set in any given space, the morevisually distinct they will be. As a general rule:
Set as few routes as possible, without compromising the overall experience ofcustomers in your gym.
先计划,更多的留出空间,利用颜色的对比性设定空间。避免不同线路上的动作出现冲突的可能性。好的线路支点在攀岩者站在岩壁之前很容易被辨识。
In a commercialsetting, we will always have to compromise between pure aesthetics nd routedensity. Inevitably, you will often have to set routes that take similar linesin order to ensure your customers have enough routes to climb. In this case,set the routes that are close to one another with holds that contrast stronglyagainst each other.
Similar shadeswill blend into one another, and look like hold soup. Even worse, once theroutes have seen substantial traffic, the chalk and rubber build up will make theroutes almost indistinguishable. This will seriously compromise the experienceof the climber. Everyone is familiar with the experience of clinging on fordear life, peering down at your feet trying to work out whether that blackfooter is yours, or whether it's a rubber-stained gray. It sucks. Avoid it.&#8232;&#8232;If you're the head setter at your gym: planahead. If you have a series of ropes next to one another, pre-plan the colourdistributions so that not only do the individual routes contrast with oneanother, but the routes on adjacent ropes also contrast with each otherwherever possible.
在攀岩馆的定线中,必须平衡空间和线路密度,以保证有足够的线路可供攀爬,线路的过多交错可能出现的问题就是,有些支点被挡住,或者被镁粉和攀岩鞋的橡胶弄的看不出颜色,相信很多攀岩者都有拼命挂在墙上找脚点的痛苦经历。
Big Small 大小对比
If you're a big advocate of high route density (which is totally fine) you canstill create distinct lines on your walls by utilising the concept of 'BigSmall'. On a dense wall, create contrast by using big, feature holds on asingle line, and smaller holds on all the others. From afar, the bigger holds willstill create a clear impression of a distinct and visually appealing route, andallow the wall to look good, without compromising route density. Havingmultiple routes that occupy similar space using big feature holds of differentcolours rarely looks good. It's simply too busy and, as a setter, it blocksmany body positions and movements that you might want to create.
如果你是岩壁密集的提倡者,我们可以用大小的对比来解决这个问题,举个例子,同个颜色的大造型线路和同颜色的中小型支点的线路可以在一个路径上。从远处看这样岩壁的效果也很不错,但是缺陷是可能支点过多会阻碍到攀岩者,不能实现定线员的动作意图。
Volumes 大造型
Of their many benefits, one of the great things about modular volumes is thatthey allow you to create complex movement without spraying the wall with a hugeamount of holds. Here's 2 different approaches to use volumes effectively as itrelates to aesthetics:
大体积造型最大好处就是可以设计出复杂多变的动作而无需改变岩壁的形状
First, and more simply: Use volumes to createinteresting and varied terrain, with minimal thought on movement, but with afocus on designing an interesting space, then set through the space you'vecreated. This process generally doesn't utilise volumes to their fullestextent, but it's far quicker, and still looks great.
第一,利用大造型做出有趣多变的角度变化,把关注点放在设计有趣的空间上,不要过多考虑动作,然后再在这个空间中设定线路,这有可能不能完全利用到大造型,但是进度会很快也很不错。
Or, secondly, create your first and most difficultboulder using the volumes as essential holds in the problem or route, addingonly minimal holds to set with. Once finished, you will be able to addsubsequent problems with a minimum of holds. Creating easier variations of theinitial problem, or running it across a different line. It's important thatyour first set is the most difficult. If it's not, all subsequent attempts toforce a harder sequence will be compromised by the fact that the climber canjust revert to using the initial, volume sequence you intended. The result willbe a clean, minimalist looking wall, but will still provide a variety ofproblems and relatively high density that still looks great.
第二,用大造型设计出难度高的线路,然后再在其基础上添加其它很少的支点成为简单些的线路,这样能做出极简主义的效果,同时又能满足线路高密度的要求。
Don't Overdo It
Aesthetics are certainly noteverything when it comes to setting. There are even times when it makes senseto give away good-looks to pure route density all together. It's all aboutcontext, and about the purpose of the set. For example, there's no particularreason to try to make a 45' system board look like a work of art. It's purelyfunctional. A tool for climbers who understand what they need, and who placevery little value on the aesthetics of the product.

Understand who you're designing for, and what you're trying to achieve, so thatyou can utilise aesthethics effectively in your setting.
根据定线的意图来设定,保持限度,举个例子,没有人会在45度的训练岩壁上要求艺术性,它就是功能性的。只有在理解攀岩者需求的基础上,线路的艺术性才有更大的价值。你才可以在定线工作中充分演绎定线美学。

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